Champions for MS

Good Morning Everyone,

This article comes from Active.com. With Daylight Savings time starting 3/8, we should be able to start our evening training rides 3/9 or 3/16 (weather permitting). Our first weekend training ride will be 3/21.

Cold-Weather Riding: Tips to Stay Warm on the Bike
There’s no reason why you can’t cycle all year round. Dressing properly is the key to winter riding.
By Frank Eastland and Todd Kaib
For Active.com

Cold, winter weather is finally here. If you’ve been taking some time off or haven’t had to endure cold-weather riding in awhile, you may not be fully prepared for the frigid onslaught.

So, what do you need to do to continue riding as it gets colder? For one, learn to dress for warmth on the bike. Although it’ll mean making an investment in winter clothing, it doesn’t have to break the bank. Try these tips and you’ll ride warm and strong all winter long.

General Rules
A good rule of thumb when preparing for a cold weather ride is to start off just a little cold, because after about 10 minutes of pedaling, you’ll warm up quite nicely. If you overdress, overheating can be uncomfortable, so you may have to experiment a little before you get it right.

The Core
First, consider the rule of layering. This is a technique of wearing varying weights of clothing designed to wick, trap, hold and block. The overall purpose of layering is to trap insulating air between layers of clothing and subsequently hold heat in.

Wear a lightweight, high-performance, polyester-based wicking fabric next to the skin. Several manufacturers produce excellent high-quality, high-performance fabrics that are designed for cyclists. This type of garment will wick moisture away from the skin, keeping your skin and clothing dry to avoid heat loss through evaporation.

Next, wear something with thermal capabilities (polyester is excellent here as well) that retains warmth while allowing a slow “breathing” process of the fabric. Modern synthetic fabrics like polyester breathe and will help you stay warmer longer.

The outer garment will serve two purposes: Hold warmth in, while blocking the cold air and wind. The outer garment should serve as thermal barrier as well as a wind block, since cycling through cold air increases the wind chill factor. Fabrics like nylon serve this purpose well. Natural fabrics like wool and cotton get wet and stay wet, so don’t wear your cotton T-shirt next to your skin thinking it will act as the primary wicking garment.

Also, if you’re riding without a windbreaker and find that you need one, insert sections of a newspaper inside your cycling jersey. Insert it in the front to block on-coming cold air, and in the back to conserve core body heat and act as an insulator. You’ll see amateurs and pros alike using this technique on long, cold descents.

The Head
About 30 percent of the body’s heat is lost through the head. A tremendous supply of blood circulates through this area, so if you keep your head warm, your body will stay warm. Depending on the severity of the cold, differing levels of head gear can be used. Ear bands or ear warmers are a good beginning. A scull cap of synthetic fabric is a good lightweight remedy.

Remember your short billed cycling cap? It’s not just for staying warm. The bill can be invaluable to protect against both sun and rain. Flip the bill up out of the way when you don’t need it, or just turn the cap backwards to protect your neck.

In very cold weather, use a heavy-duty winter cycling cap that has both a bill AND ear flaps. Worn under a helmet, the helmet strap holds the ear flaps down, keeping the head nice and warm.

In extreme conditions, use a balaclava (or full hood) which covers the head, face and neck and has a small opening for the eyes and nose. Just don’t walk into a bank with this on!

And don’t forget the eyes. Traveling through cold air causes your eyes to tear, making it extremely difficult to see. Choose a good pair of cycling glasses that curve around the face and protect eyes from wind and other elements, without fogging up. Good eyewear, like all good cycling gear, is a good investment.

Respiration is another way to lose body heat, so if you’re not wearing a balaclava, fold a bandana into a triangle and tie it to fit over your nose and mouth-just like the robbers in the old Westerns. This can make the difference between a comfortable ride and a miserable one. Just remember, don’t go into a bank like this.

The Hands
I recommend cycling gloves for a couple of reasons. Most cycling gloves are cushioned on the palms, providing proper circulation in the various hand positions on your handlebars. Gloves also protect your hands from road rash if you fall. In the winter months, full fingered gloves are a good idea or cycling mittens for more extreme conditions.

The Feet
Since the feet are pedaling circles and churning through the cold air more than the rest of your body, they need to be protected from the cold. Like the head, body heat is lost to a large degree through the feet. For cold-weather riding, use a heavier thermal cycling sock that wicks moisture and retains heat; choose socks made from synthetic fabrics.

Cycling booties slipped over your shoes are great in cold weather. The booties are designed to accommodate your pedal cleats, and insulate your foot and ankle as well. For days that aren’t cold enough for booties, wear toe covers. Toe covers accomplish the same thing that a windbreaker does for your chest: they keep the cold air from penetrating your foot.

If you’re on a ride without booties or covers and your feet get cold, get plastic bags from a convenience or grocery store and slip them over your feet (inside your shoes). While you’re at it, you might as well ask for a hot cup of coffee-the hot coffee will help heat up your core from the inside.

The Legs
Another rule of thumb is to keep knees covered anytime the weather is below 50 degrees. This helps keep them warm and protected from the cold air, thus keeping them properly lubricated and functioning. For semi-cold weather, short cycling tights are a good option; they come down just below the knee without covering the entire leg.

Cycling leg warmers are also very convenient as they are easy to zip on and off quickly as needed. For colder weather, full cycling tights range from lightweight to heavy and waterproof, or you can find insulated cycling pants.

The Arms
Like cycling tights and pants, arm warmers can be used to keep arms warm in semi-cold conditions. Arm warmers can be quite useful for days that start out cold and warm up as the sun comes out. As the weather warms, the arm warmers can be rolled down or taken off and stored in your jersey pocket. Again, there are varying degrees of thickness and insulation of arm warmers.

On winter days that don’t warm up, wear a long-sleeved jersey (either insulated or not depending on the cold) for your middle garment as described above.

Basic Apparel
Now that we’ve gone over the cold-weather apparel to protect the body, don’t forget the basics: A proper helmet, good cycling shorts with chamois and proper cycling shoes.

Now, adequately armed with what it takes to stay warm in the cold, you’re ready to hit the road year round. You’ll love it and your fair-weather cycling buddies will be envious. So just get out there and ride. Don’t let a cold day keep you inside, just prepare for the cold properly.

Words of Wisdom
Drink before your thirsty, eat before your hungry. Get used to hearing this phrase… 

Get used to drinking and eating on the bike. Set your sports watch to go off every 5-10 minutes to remind you to pull from your water bottle. On a warm day you will go through 16-32 ounces of fluid every 30-45 minutes. Get used to drinking a combination of water and energy drinks.

In June of 2002 I rode the BKM/Steelcase MS bike tour. Like many other rides, you find a group to ride with and develop a camaraderie, while working together and sharing the ride experience. One of the people I used to train with was a home builder by the name of Bill Mandel. Bill had a tendency to always go out a little too fast, and usually didn’t drink or eat enough. So most days when we finished our rides Bill was almost out of gas.
This was one of those times. The day was in the mid 80′s with a stiff 30 knot head wind. It was the kind of day, you might forget those words of wisdom “Drink Before your thirsty, eat before your hungry”. At around mile 65 Bill pulled up on my rear wheel, and said he could not see the road. When I looked back, I could see the salt ringing his helmet lines. He was really dehydrated. We pulled the pace way back, I passed the third bottle I carried in my jersey pocket back to him, and asked him to focus on my rear wheel. The winds kept picking up, and my brother and I alternated blocking the wind from Bill, all the while talking with him, to keep him focused on finishing. In the end, Bill finished his first century. He hugged myself and my brother for helping him finish. What I told him was. The thanks was not needed. He could have quit, but he didn’t. He had the courage to preserver. We just helped him get through it.
Moral to the Story :
DRINK BEFORE YOUR THIRSTY, EAT BEFORE YOUR HUNGRY.

With most of us living in Western PA, Ohio, and West Virginia, the weather has not been conducive to outdoor training as of yet.

To help you train indoors, here is a series of  indoor trainer workouts from cycling guru Fred Matheny.

Indoor Training, The Workouts
By Fred Matheny
Trainer Workouts Using Segments
I use a segmented approach to indoor cycling workouts. Here’s how it works:
 Each segment below is a self-contained workout spanning 15-20 minutes.
 Segments are designed to accomplish a specific training objective, such as warming up, improving speed or increasing power.
 Segments can be combined to fill the amount of time you want to spend on the workout.
 Segments can be chosen to pinpoint specific skills you want to improve.
Remember that these segments are samples; and I’ve provided a lot to choose from. Each workout suggests several variations, and variety is the key to enjoying (not just surviving) your time on the trainer. I have also included guidelines for those using perceived exertion (“hard,” “easy,” etc.) to gauge effort, and for those familiar with heart-rate exertion levels. Use the one you prefer. (It’s a good idea to purchase a heart-rate monitor if you are training seriously.)
TIP! Gear suggestions are expressed as, for example 39×19. This means a 39-tooth chainring (a size found on many bikes) combined with a 19-tooth cog.

You don’t have to use the gear I list. More important is using whichever gear is easy or hard for you in the context of the segment. The right gear will change as your fitness develops during the course of training.
Trainer workouts are limited only by your imagination. In fact, it’s possible to train indoors 3 times per week for several months and never duplicate a workout. Make it your goal never to do the same one twice. Be creative!
The Workout Segment: Warm Up and Cool Down
Always do these 2 segments. Warm up to begin a trainer workout and cool down before climbing off. Most cyclists use the same warm-up and cool down each time to simplify the workout. But you can vary the approach as long as you work gradually into and out of higher intensities.
Warm up (15 minutes). Start in a low gear of about 39×19, depending on the resistance of your trainer. Spin easily at about 70 revolutions per minute. Monitor your rpm by counting every time your right foot comes around during 30 seconds and multiply by 2. Each minute, increase cadence by several rpm. After 5 minutes, increase the gear. At the end of 15 minutes, you should be sweating lightly and your heart rate should be about 80 percent of max. Finish the warm-up with several 10-second sprints in a large gear.
Cool down (10 minutes). When the main workout is complete, decrease cadence and gearing on 1-minute intervals until you’re spinning an easy gear at about 70 rpm. Then get off.

The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (1)
Spin-ups (20 minutes)
In a low gear (39×19), spin at 70 rpm for 60 seconds.
Each minute, increase cadence by 5 rpm. You’ll know when cadence gets too fast to sustain for 60 seconds because your butt will bounce on the saddle.
When you start bouncing, reduce cadence by 5 rpm every minute to the end of the 20-minute segment.
The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (2)
Stand and sprint (20 minutes)
In a moderate gear (53×19), stand and sprint at about 100 rpm for 15 seconds.
Sit and spin the same gear gently for 45 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 & 2 four times.
In a fairly large gear (53×17), stand and sprint hard for 10 seconds.
Sit down, shift to a fairly low gear (39×17) and spin easily for 50 seconds.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 nine times.
The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (3)
One-leg speed (20 minutes) Note: One-Leg Pedaling is explained below.
In a low gear (39×19), spin at 90 rpm for 15 seconds. Then pedal slowly for 45 seconds.
Repeat 4 more times, but increase your cadence during the first 15 seconds by 5 rpm each time.
Unclip your left foot. In a low gear (39×21), spin with your right leg for 60 seconds at about 100 rpm.
Do the same with the left leg.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 four times.
Using both feet, repeat steps 1 and 2.

One-Leg-Pedaling Trainer Workout
One-leg pedaling is an extremely effective way to work on strength and add variety to your indoor training at the same time. When you pedal with both legs, the leg that pulls the foot through the
bottom of the stroke, up the back and over the top gets lazy. That’s because the other leg is pushing the pedal down, a much more powerful and natural action than pulling the pedal up.

Now think about it. If your leg doesn’t help bring the pedal up and over the top, it’s just dead weight. It increases the resistance your muscles must overcome to move your bike down the road. This is why learning to pedal a complete, 360-degree circle with each leg makes you a better rider. One-leg pedaling drills teach your muscles and nervous system.
The Workout Segment: One-leg training
Warm up on the trainer for 20 minutes by pedaling with both legs.
Unclip your left foot from the pedal. Hook it back over the trainer just to the left of where it connects to the rear hub (photo). Or, rest it on a chair or stool just outside the left pedal circle.
Pedal at about 90 rpm with your right leg. Use an easy gear until you get accustomed to the unusual feeling. You’ll probably find it difficult to pedal for more than 2 or 3 minutes the first time. The muscles that lift your thigh and push the pedal over the top will fatigue quickly. But you’ll improve rapidly.
After a few minutes of using the right leg, switch to the left and pedal for the same amount of time.
As you improve, increase the gear and the amount of time you pedal with each leg.
TIP! To simulate riding uphill, put a block of wood under the front wheel to tilt the bike. A 4- or 5-inch block will do it.

The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (1)
Minute on, minute off (20 minutes)
In the saddle using a fairly large gear (53×17), pedal at 90 rpm for 60 seconds. This should raise your heart rate to within 5 bpm of your lactate threshold (LT). It should feel “hard.”
Shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 60 seconds.
Repeat 9 times. During the final 3 efforts, your heart rate will climb to your LT or slightly above as you near the end of 60 seconds.

The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (2)
Stand and ascend (20 minutes)
In a big gear (53×13), stand and pedal rhythmically for 2 minutes. Your heart rate should rise to about 5 bmp below your lactate threshold. It should feel “hard.”
Sit down, shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 2 minutes.
Repeat 4 times. During the final 3 efforts, your heart rate will climb to your LT or slightly above as you near the end of the 2 minutes
The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (3)
Up and down (20 minutes)
In a moderate gear (53×19), pedal for 5 minutes at a cadence around 90 rpm.
Stand and shift to a cog that’s 2 or 3 teeth smaller than you were in while sitting. For example, if you pedal seated in 53×19, shift to the 17 or even the 15 when you stand. Intensity should feel “hard.” Your heart rate should rise to your LT in the last 2 minutes.
Sit down, shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 5 minutes to recover.
Repeat once.

Indoor Riding & Weights
You don’t need to stay on the trainer for an entire workout. For example, you can alternate 2- or 3-minute cycling intervals at about 85 percent of your max heart rate with leg presses, squats or step-ups. The weight workout improves strength. The pedaling intervals remind your legs and nervous system that you’re a cyclist, too. This workout is a great way to create strength and begin the process of converting it to cycling-specific power.
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (1)
If you have a time trial bike, use it for these workout so you get accustomed to the position. Or, put clip-on aero bars on your trainer bike.
TT “threes” (20 minutes)
Ride for 3 minutes at a steady pace. Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm but does not drive your heart rate past LT. It should feel “hard” but not exhausting.
Shift to the small chainring and pedal easily for 2 minutes.
Repeat 3 times.
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (2)
TT ladder (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that lets you maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm and a heart rate not exceeding your LT. It should feel “hard,” but not exhausting.
Do a ladder like this:
1 minute hard, 1 minute easy
2 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy
3 minutes hard, 3 minutes easy
4 minutes hard, 4 minutes easy
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (3)
TT “eights” (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that lets you maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm and a heart rate not exceeding your LT. It should feel “hard, but not exhausting.
Ride at time trial cadence and intensity for 8 minutes. Check your cyclecomputer to see how far you go. Check your heart monitor to determine average heart rate.
Ride easily for 4 minutes.
Repeat the 8-minute TT and re-check distance and average heart rate. If you cover substantially less distance the second time, or your heart rate is more than 5 beats higher, it says you did the first effort too hard.
The Workout Segment: Intervals (1)
Interval ladder (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm for the length of each interval. Intensity should be “very hard” at the end of each work period.
Do a ladder like this:
2 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy
1:45 hard, 1:45 easy
1:30 hard, 1:30 easy
1:15 hard, 1:15 easy
1:00 hard, 1:00 easy
:45 hard, :45 easy
:30 hard, :30 easy
The Workout Segment: Intervals (2)
Interval “threes” (18 minutes)
Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm for the length of each interval. Intensity should be “very hard” at the end of each work period.
Ride hard for 3 minutes.
Shift to the small chainring and pedal easily for 3 minutes.
Repeat 2 times.
This Signature Series article is provided courtesy of RoadBikeRider.com. It comes from RoadBikeRider’s bible of training for cycling, Fred Matheny’s Complete Book of Road Bike Training by Fred Matheny.

From the cover: During three decades as a road rider and cycling writer, Fred Matheny has built an international reputation for his contributions to the sport. In this, his thirteenth book, he amasses his knowledge and that of many other experts in what is truly the complete book of road bike training.

RoadBikeRider offers Fred’s book, many more cycling guides and even a free weekly e-mail newsletter full of tips and news for aspiring bicyclists.