Now more than ever indoor training is critical to making your Bike MS experience the best it can be. Over the next few months I will be passing on links from a variety of resources to help you before we take to the road.

Here is a little something from our friends at Bicycling Magazine.

http://www.bicycling.com/training-nutrition/training-fitness/cycling-cross-training-selene-yeager

Thank you so much and here is to a great tour.

Heart..Determination…Courage..We are Champions for MS.

-Jeff H.

Good Morning Everyone,

This is a strength training workout that Lance uses.

-Jeff H.

Riding in traffic can be a little scary. Here is another great article from our friends at Active.com.

http://www.active.com/cycling/Articles/Rules_of_the_road__Tips_to_make_riding_in_traffic_less_scary.htm

Rules of the road: Tips to make riding in traffic less scary
Be prepared for the worst when cycling through traffic Credit: Sara Weiner Edmund R. Burke, Ph.D.
Active.com

The average cyclist and bike weighs between 150 and 250 pounds. The average car weighs about 2,500 pounds. So it’s no accident that the No.1 reason more people don’t ride is fear of traffic.
I understand the anxiety, but it’s never enough to keep us off the road. And it should never stop you, either. To mingle with traffic and flow like water over pavement when the road is clear, you need to ride with confidence and skill. You need anticipation and a tingly sixth sense that lets you skirt dangerous situations before they develop. You can get all of that with these tips.

Ride like a car
The big idea is to be steady and predictable. Instead of fighting against motorized traffic, follow the same rules. Obey signs and lights, ride with traffic instead of against it, turn left only from the left side of the road, and signal turns. (When turning right, we like to point right with our right arm instead of using the bent left arm, which some motorists don’t understand.)

Anticipate
Keep your head up. Aim your vision at least 10 to 20 feet ahead of your bike (farther when you’re going faster). Also, know the three most common mistakes car drivers make: 1) Oncoming cars turn left in front of us; 2) Cross traffic pulls in front of us at stop signs; and 3) Cars pass us, then quickly turn right, cutting us off. Be especially watchful for these developing situations.

Take your place
If you hug the curb, you tempt cars to squeeze by you. Although it seems riskier, we recommend still riding to the right (as required by law) but taking up enough space so that cars must move slightly left to pass you. This makes drivers more aware of you.

Remember to use good sense. Don’t ride so much toward the center that you become a hazard. One exception: When you’re moving at the same speed as traffic it’s safer to take a place in the line rather than ride directly beside a car.

Be visible
The chief idea here is to ride to be seen. Don’t spend time in a driver’s blind spot – just to the left of the rear wheel. And make an effort to become visible in a driver’s radar. Besides using hand signals for turns, also use eye contact, hand waves, smiles and nods to connect with drivers.

Brake so you stay in a straight line
Apply both brakes at once, with more force on the rear brake initially. Gradually increase pressure on the front brake. If you begin to skid with either wheel, use less force on that brake. Never brake in a corner or when your bike is leaning.

Ride a straight line
Eliminating the wobbling from your style takes practice. When traffic is light, try centering your front wheel on the painted road border as you ride. Also practice sipping from a water bottle without swerving. To learn to look around or behind without swerving, try this: Take one arm off the bar and point it straight back, then turn your head and sight along your outstretched arm. This gives you a reference point to judge how straight you are riding.

 Be safe everyone!

We are now 4 weeks out!

Heart…Determination…Courage…We are Champions for MS!

-Jeff H.

Before Every Ride:
• Check tire air pressure
• Check brakes and cables
• Be sure your crank set is tight
• Be sure quick release hubs are tight
After Every Ride:
• Inspect tires for glass, gravel shards, and cuts on tread and sidewall
• Check wheels for true
• Clean the bike’s mechanical parts as necessary. Once a week or every 200 miles: Lubricate chain (with dry lube; or every other week or 400 miles with wet chain lube).
Once a Month:
• Completely clean the bike, including the drivetrain if necessary
• Inspect chain and freewheel. Measure the chain for wear, check for tight links and replace the chain if necessary
• Inspect and lubricate brake levers, derailleurs and all cables
• Inspect pedals and lubricate SPD style cleats. Inspect tires for wear; rotate or replace if needed
• Inspect and check for looseness in the:
• Stem binder bolt
• Handlebar binder bolt
• Seatpost binder bolt (or quick release)
• Seat fixing bolt
• Crank bolts
• Chainring bolts
• Derailleur mounting bolts
• Bottle cage bolts
• Rack mounting bolts
• Brake and derailleur cable anchors
• Brake and shifter lever mounting bolts
• Brake mounting bolts
Every Three Months:
• Inspect frame and fork for paint cracks or bulges that may indicate frame or part damage; pay particular attention to all frame joints.
• Visually inspect for bent components: seat rails, seat post, stem, handlebars, chainrings, crankarms, brake calipers and brake levers.
Every Six Months:
Inspect and readjust bearings in headset, hubs, pedals and bottom bracket (if possible; some sealed cartridge bearings cannot be adjusted, only replaced).
Annually (Depending on Mileage):
Disassemble and overhaul; replace all bearings (if possible); and remove and if necessary replace all brake and shift cables. This should be performed at 6,000 miles if you ride more than that per year. If you often ride in the rain or mountain bikers who get dirty should overhaul their bicycles more often.

By Dr. Ed Burke, PhD.
Active.com
Not too long ago, it was possible to compete in cycling without sunglasses and win races such as the Tour de France. Is the upsurge in professional cyclists using sunglasses just an easy way to attract more sponsorship dollars into their pockets and look good on TV?
No! In addition to protecting eyes from dirt, dust and a laundry list of projectiles, sunglasses are the best way to ensure that they won’t suffer from cataracts, keratitis and other eye ailments caused by UV radiation.
Studies have shown that the risk of cataracts, a gradual clouding of the lens of the eye that can lead to total blindness, is tripled by long-term exposure to the sun’s UV (ultraviolet) rays. Protecting the eyes with specialty sunglasses that block 100 percent of the sun’s UV radiation is the best way to prevent cataracts.
Exposure of the unprotected eye to UV rays can also result in keratitis, a temporary loss of vision coupled with a burning sensation that results from inflammation of the cornea. A secondary solar threat the sun’s heat, can dry out the eyes, cause eye fatigue and perhaps accelerate the negative effects of UV exposure.
The risk of eye damage from the sun is directly related to length and intensity of exposure. No one knows what the critical amount of exposure is, but effects are cumulative; short but frequent periods spent outside can add up to trouble.
Fortunately, cyclists have been getting the word on sunglasses for a few years now, which explains why, while watching the Tour de France on TV, we haven’t seen the irises of Lance Armstrong, Jan Ulrich, Stuart O’Grady or Erik Zabel and almost everyone in the peloton.
Key Features
When looking for sunglasses that will offer protection while cycling and other outdoor activities there are several key points to consider when selecting a pair for cycling:
Lens Color: For the best protection, you’ll want to block out 75 to 90 percent of visible light in bright sun, 35 to 50 percent on dull days.
When buying a pair, look for a tag indicating their light-absorption qualities, or the opposite, their transmission factor. Several brands of glasses allow of changing out of lenses to allow for environmental conditions.
The best color to choose for all-around use is neutral gray because it doesn’t distort color, though brown is OK, too. Stay away from fashionable tints and bright colors. They are not really sunglasses.
Photochromic lenses, which darken as the light increases, will cover the broadest range of conditions and are available in several density ranges.
Ultraviolet Radiation (UV): Almost all quality sunglasses produced today offer essential protection against ultraviolet (UVA and UVB) radiation. Some lens materials have a built-in ability to absorb U/V light, but most protection is added in the form of lens coatings.
Most U/V on its way from the sun to earth is absorbed by the upper and ozone layers of the atmosphere and is diffused further by the time it reaches sea level.
U/V levels that should concern skiers are encountered at higher elevations where the atmosphere is thin and intense light is reflected off the snow. U/V radiation increases approximately 15 percent for every 3,000 feet in altitude.
Shields or Wraparound Frames: Wraparound-type frames and lenses offer several advantages for cyclists. Wraparounds allow the best peripheral (side) vision, thanks to the lack of obstruction by the frame and temple. Peripheral vision is especially important for maneuvering safety in a group of riders and in traffic.
Wraparounds also help keep drying wind off the eyes, while allowing enough air circulation to prevent fogging of the lenses. Wraparound lenses that extend higher above the eyebrow allow unobstructed vision when riding low on the drops.
Lens Type: Ploycarbonate lenses are virtually unbreakable. They’re also lighter and will not fog up as easily as glass. But plastic lenses are more susceptible to scratches and aren’t always optically-sound. To check for distortion, hold a pair of sunglasses at arm’s length and look through them at a source of light. Images should be clear through every part of the lenses.
Frames: Among frames, nylon or plastic is lighter, safer, and more durable than metal, but either can become brittle in cold weather. With any frame, look for hinges that are simple and tough. Some cyclists prefer a one-piece frame.
Face it. There are only two reasons you wear sunglasses: to protect your eyes and to look cool. You have available to you both safety and style engineered into sport-shield sunglasses for cycling. Now you can have functional and fashionable glasses while riding your bike and look like the stars of the field.

This is another great article from our friends at Active.com

By Joe Friel
VeloNews
Here is my training philosophy: An athlete should do the least amount of properly timed, specific training that brings continual improvement.
The idea of limiting training is a scary thought for some. Many cyclists have become so accustomed to overtraining it seems a normal state. These racers are no less addicted than drug users. As is the case with a drug addict, the chronically overtrained athlete is not getting any better but still can’t convince himself or herself to change.
My basic philosophy is simply “use your training time wisely.” For those of us with full-time jobs, spouses, children, a home to maintain, and other responsibilities, using training time wisely is more than a philosophy; it’s a necessity.
What this means is that there are times when it’s right to do higher-volume training, but not necessarily the highest possible. This is usually in the Base (general preparation) period of training. There are also times when high volume is not wise, but faster, more race-specific training is right. These are the Build and Peak (specific preparation) periods.
While it seems so simple, there are many who can’t seem to get it right. They put in lots of miles when they should be trying to get faster. And when they should be building a base of general fitness, they’re going fast-usually in group hammer sessions.
So what do you use to gauge your progress? How tired you are? How fast you are? If it’s the former, you’re doomed to a career of less-than-stellar racing. Once you figure out that fatigue gets in the way of getting faster and you make the necessary changes, you’ll be flying.
To help you better understand this training philosophy I have broken it down into the “Ten Commandments of Training.” By incorporating each of these guidelines into your thinking and training, you’ll be following this philosophy and getting a better return on your time invested. Your results will also improve regardless of your age or experience.
1. Train Moderately
Your body has limits when it comes to endurance, speed and strength. Muscles will only contract forcefully a certain number of times before they refuse to pull hard again. The biggest mistake of most athletes is to make the easy days too hard, so when it comes time for a hard training day, they can’t go hard enough.
By progressing carefully, especially with intensity, you’ll gradually get stronger and there will be time and energy for other pursuits in life. An athlete who enjoys training will get more benefits from it than one who is always on the edge of overtraining.
2. Train Consistently
The human body thrives on routine, and regular activity brings positive change. This does not mean do the same workout every day, week after week. Variety also promotes growth. This is not to say that you shouldn’t do hard workouts or that it isn’t necessary to push the limits on occasion and experience fatigue as a result.
It’s obvious that if coming close to your riding potential is your goal, you must often face and conquer training challenges. Training consistently, not extremely, is the route to the highest possible fitness and your ultimate racing performances. The key to consistency is moderation and rest.
3. Get Adequate Rest
During rest, the body adapts to the stresses of training and grows stronger. Without rest, there’s simply no improvement. As the stress of training increases, so does the need for rest. When we sleep, our body releases human growth hormone, and it mends and grows stronger.
If our time spent snoozing is shortened, it takes us longer to recover and our consistency in training suffers. Damaged cells take longer to heal, raising the risk of injury and illness. If the training workload remains high despite decreased sleep time, overtraining becomes a real threat. Burnout is lurking just around the corner.
4. Train With a Plan
This is fundamental to improvement in almost any endeavor of life, yet few self-trained athletes do it. Realize that all plans can be changed. Yours will not be chiseled into stone. It takes some flexibility to cope with the many factors that will get in your way. These may include a bad cold, overtime at work, unexpected travel, or a visit from family or friends.
I have yet to coach an athlete who didn’t have something interfere with the plan. Expect it, but don’t be upset. Roll with the punches and change the plan to fit the new situation.
5. Train With Groups Infrequently
There’s a real advantage to working out with others-sometimes. For the winter base-building period, find a group that rides at a comfortable pace. During the spring intensity-building period, ride with a group that will challenge you to ride fast, just as when racing.
Smart and structured group rides are hard to find. You may need to create your own. Stay away from big packs that take over the road and are unsafe. You want to get faster, not get killed. Use groups when they can help you. Otherwise, avoid them.
6. Plan to Peak
Your season plan should bring you to your peak for the most important events. I call these “A” races. The “B” races are important, too, but you will not taper and peak for these, just rest for three to four days before. “C” races are tune-ups to get you ready for the A and B races. A smart rider will use these low-priority races for experience, or to practice pacing, or as a time trial to gauge fitness. If all races are A-level priority, don’t expect much in the way of results.
7. Improve Weaknesses
What type of training do riders with great endurance, but not much speed, do the most? You guessed it, endurance work. What do good climbers like to do? Not surprisingly, they like to train in the hills. Most cyclists spend too much time working on what they already do well. What’s your weakest area? Ask your training partners if you don’t know. I’ll bet they do. Then spend more time on that area.
8. Trust Your Training
Few of us trust our training when it comes time to race. There’s a great fear as the big race approaches that we haven’t done enough, so we train right up to race day. I’ve seen people the day before an important race go out for a long ride or compete in a hard race because they think it will help.
It takes 10 to 21 days of reduced workload for the human body to be fully ready to race, depending on how long and hard the training has been. Cut back before the big races, and you’ll do better. Trust me.
9. Listen to Your Body
In the early 1990s, I attended a talk by the former head of the East German Sports Institute. He described how every morning each athlete met with a group of experts-an event coach, a physiologist, a doctor or nurse, and a sports psychologist, for example.
The group checked the athlete’s readiness to train that day and made adjustments as necessary to the schedule. The athlete trained only to the level he or she could tolerate that day. Nothing more. If you listen to what the body is saying, you’ll train smarter and get faster. Cyclists who train intelligently always beat athletes who train hard.

After you set your goals, take a look at them and determine how they relate to your lifestyle and training. Determine whether change is needed. Eat nutritious food to not only fuel the body for training, but also to help speed recovery, replenish depleted energy and nutrient stores, and provide the building blocks for a stronger body.
Keep a training log. Record workout details, perceptions of effort, stress signals, race results and analyses, signs of increasing or decreasing fitness, equipment changes, and anything else that describes your daily experience. Most athletes also find that keeping a log provides them with a sharper training focus and more rapid growth toward their goals.

This article comes from Active.com. With Daylight Savings time starting 3/8, we should be able to start our evening training rides 3/9 or 3/16 (weather permitting). Our first weekend training ride will be 3/21.

Cold-Weather Riding: Tips to Stay Warm on the Bike
There’s no reason why you can’t cycle all year round. Dressing properly is the key to winter riding.
By Frank Eastland and Todd Kaib
For Active.com

Cold, winter weather is finally here. If you’ve been taking some time off or haven’t had to endure cold-weather riding in awhile, you may not be fully prepared for the frigid onslaught.

So, what do you need to do to continue riding as it gets colder? For one, learn to dress for warmth on the bike. Although it’ll mean making an investment in winter clothing, it doesn’t have to break the bank. Try these tips and you’ll ride warm and strong all winter long.

General Rules
A good rule of thumb when preparing for a cold weather ride is to start off just a little cold, because after about 10 minutes of pedaling, you’ll warm up quite nicely. If you overdress, overheating can be uncomfortable, so you may have to experiment a little before you get it right.

The Core
First, consider the rule of layering. This is a technique of wearing varying weights of clothing designed to wick, trap, hold and block. The overall purpose of layering is to trap insulating air between layers of clothing and subsequently hold heat in.

Wear a lightweight, high-performance, polyester-based wicking fabric next to the skin. Several manufacturers produce excellent high-quality, high-performance fabrics that are designed for cyclists. This type of garment will wick moisture away from the skin, keeping your skin and clothing dry to avoid heat loss through evaporation.

Next, wear something with thermal capabilities (polyester is excellent here as well) that retains warmth while allowing a slow “breathing” process of the fabric. Modern synthetic fabrics like polyester breathe and will help you stay warmer longer.

The outer garment will serve two purposes: Hold warmth in, while blocking the cold air and wind. The outer garment should serve as thermal barrier as well as a wind block, since cycling through cold air increases the wind chill factor. Fabrics like nylon serve this purpose well. Natural fabrics like wool and cotton get wet and stay wet, so don’t wear your cotton T-shirt next to your skin thinking it will act as the primary wicking garment.

Also, if you’re riding without a windbreaker and find that you need one, insert sections of a newspaper inside your cycling jersey. Insert it in the front to block on-coming cold air, and in the back to conserve core body heat and act as an insulator. You’ll see amateurs and pros alike using this technique on long, cold descents.

The Head
About 30 percent of the body’s heat is lost through the head. A tremendous supply of blood circulates through this area, so if you keep your head warm, your body will stay warm. Depending on the severity of the cold, differing levels of head gear can be used. Ear bands or ear warmers are a good beginning. A scull cap of synthetic fabric is a good lightweight remedy.

Remember your short billed cycling cap? It’s not just for staying warm. The bill can be invaluable to protect against both sun and rain. Flip the bill up out of the way when you don’t need it, or just turn the cap backwards to protect your neck.

In very cold weather, use a heavy-duty winter cycling cap that has both a bill AND ear flaps. Worn under a helmet, the helmet strap holds the ear flaps down, keeping the head nice and warm.

In extreme conditions, use a balaclava (or full hood) which covers the head, face and neck and has a small opening for the eyes and nose. Just don’t walk into a bank with this on!

And don’t forget the eyes. Traveling through cold air causes your eyes to tear, making it extremely difficult to see. Choose a good pair of cycling glasses that curve around the face and protect eyes from wind and other elements, without fogging up. Good eyewear, like all good cycling gear, is a good investment.

Respiration is another way to lose body heat, so if you’re not wearing a balaclava, fold a bandana into a triangle and tie it to fit over your nose and mouth-just like the robbers in the old Westerns. This can make the difference between a comfortable ride and a miserable one. Just remember, don’t go into a bank like this.

The Hands
I recommend cycling gloves for a couple of reasons. Most cycling gloves are cushioned on the palms, providing proper circulation in the various hand positions on your handlebars. Gloves also protect your hands from road rash if you fall. In the winter months, full fingered gloves are a good idea or cycling mittens for more extreme conditions.

The Feet
Since the feet are pedaling circles and churning through the cold air more than the rest of your body, they need to be protected from the cold. Like the head, body heat is lost to a large degree through the feet. For cold-weather riding, use a heavier thermal cycling sock that wicks moisture and retains heat; choose socks made from synthetic fabrics.

Cycling booties slipped over your shoes are great in cold weather. The booties are designed to accommodate your pedal cleats, and insulate your foot and ankle as well. For days that aren’t cold enough for booties, wear toe covers. Toe covers accomplish the same thing that a windbreaker does for your chest: they keep the cold air from penetrating your foot.

If you’re on a ride without booties or covers and your feet get cold, get plastic bags from a convenience or grocery store and slip them over your feet (inside your shoes). While you’re at it, you might as well ask for a hot cup of coffee-the hot coffee will help heat up your core from the inside.

The Legs
Another rule of thumb is to keep knees covered anytime the weather is below 50 degrees. This helps keep them warm and protected from the cold air, thus keeping them properly lubricated and functioning. For semi-cold weather, short cycling tights are a good option; they come down just below the knee without covering the entire leg.

Cycling leg warmers are also very convenient as they are easy to zip on and off quickly as needed. For colder weather, full cycling tights range from lightweight to heavy and waterproof, or you can find insulated cycling pants.

The Arms
Like cycling tights and pants, arm warmers can be used to keep arms warm in semi-cold conditions. Arm warmers can be quite useful for days that start out cold and warm up as the sun comes out. As the weather warms, the arm warmers can be rolled down or taken off and stored in your jersey pocket. Again, there are varying degrees of thickness and insulation of arm warmers.

On winter days that don’t warm up, wear a long-sleeved jersey (either insulated or not depending on the cold) for your middle garment as described above.

Basic Apparel
Now that we’ve gone over the cold-weather apparel to protect the body, don’t forget the basics: A proper helmet, good cycling shorts with chamois and proper cycling shoes.

Now, adequately armed with what it takes to stay warm in the cold, you’re ready to hit the road year round. You’ll love it and your fair-weather cycling buddies will be envious. So just get out there and ride. Don’t let a cold day keep you inside, just prepare for the cold properly.

Get used to drinking and eating on the bike. Set your sports watch to go off every 5-10 minutes to remind you to pull from your water bottle. On a warm day you will go through 16-32 ounces of fluid every 30-45 minutes. Get used to drinking a combination of water and energy drinks.

In June of 2002 I rode the BKM/Steelcase MS bike tour. Like many other rides, you find a group to ride with and develop a camaraderie, while working together and sharing the ride experience. One of the people I used to train with was a home builder by the name of Bill Mandel. Bill had a tendency to always go out a little too fast, and usually didn’t drink or eat enough. So most days when we finished our rides Bill was almost out of gas.
This was one of those times. The day was in the mid 80′s with a stiff 30 knot head wind. It was the kind of day, you might forget those words of wisdom “Drink Before your thirsty, eat before your hungry”. At around mile 65 Bill pulled up on my rear wheel, and said he could not see the road. When I looked back, I could see the salt ringing his helmet lines. He was really dehydrated. We pulled the pace way back, I passed the third bottle I carried in my jersey pocket back to him, and asked him to focus on my rear wheel. The winds kept picking up, and my brother and I alternated blocking the wind from Bill, all the while talking with him, to keep him focused on finishing. In the end, Bill finished his first century. He hugged myself and my brother for helping him finish. What I told him was. The thanks was not needed. He could have quit, but he didn’t. He had the courage to preserver. We just helped him get through it.
Moral to the Story :
DRINK BEFORE YOUR THIRSTY, EAT BEFORE YOUR HUNGRY.

To help you train indoors, here is a series of  indoor trainer workouts from cycling guru Fred Matheny.

Indoor Training, The Workouts
By Fred Matheny
Trainer Workouts Using Segments
I use a segmented approach to indoor cycling workouts. Here’s how it works:
 Each segment below is a self-contained workout spanning 15-20 minutes.
 Segments are designed to accomplish a specific training objective, such as warming up, improving speed or increasing power.
 Segments can be combined to fill the amount of time you want to spend on the workout.
 Segments can be chosen to pinpoint specific skills you want to improve.
Remember that these segments are samples; and I’ve provided a lot to choose from. Each workout suggests several variations, and variety is the key to enjoying (not just surviving) your time on the trainer. I have also included guidelines for those using perceived exertion (“hard,” “easy,” etc.) to gauge effort, and for those familiar with heart-rate exertion levels. Use the one you prefer. (It’s a good idea to purchase a heart-rate monitor if you are training seriously.)
TIP! Gear suggestions are expressed as, for example 39×19. This means a 39-tooth chainring (a size found on many bikes) combined with a 19-tooth cog.

You don’t have to use the gear I list. More important is using whichever gear is easy or hard for you in the context of the segment. The right gear will change as your fitness develops during the course of training.
Trainer workouts are limited only by your imagination. In fact, it’s possible to train indoors 3 times per week for several months and never duplicate a workout. Make it your goal never to do the same one twice. Be creative!
The Workout Segment: Warm Up and Cool Down
Always do these 2 segments. Warm up to begin a trainer workout and cool down before climbing off. Most cyclists use the same warm-up and cool down each time to simplify the workout. But you can vary the approach as long as you work gradually into and out of higher intensities.
Warm up (15 minutes). Start in a low gear of about 39×19, depending on the resistance of your trainer. Spin easily at about 70 revolutions per minute. Monitor your rpm by counting every time your right foot comes around during 30 seconds and multiply by 2. Each minute, increase cadence by several rpm. After 5 minutes, increase the gear. At the end of 15 minutes, you should be sweating lightly and your heart rate should be about 80 percent of max. Finish the warm-up with several 10-second sprints in a large gear.
Cool down (10 minutes). When the main workout is complete, decrease cadence and gearing on 1-minute intervals until you’re spinning an easy gear at about 70 rpm. Then get off.

The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (1)
Spin-ups (20 minutes)
In a low gear (39×19), spin at 70 rpm for 60 seconds.
Each minute, increase cadence by 5 rpm. You’ll know when cadence gets too fast to sustain for 60 seconds because your butt will bounce on the saddle.
When you start bouncing, reduce cadence by 5 rpm every minute to the end of the 20-minute segment.
The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (2)
Stand and sprint (20 minutes)
In a moderate gear (53×19), stand and sprint at about 100 rpm for 15 seconds.
Sit and spin the same gear gently for 45 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 & 2 four times.
In a fairly large gear (53×17), stand and sprint hard for 10 seconds.
Sit down, shift to a fairly low gear (39×17) and spin easily for 50 seconds.
Repeat steps 4 and 5 nine times.
The Workout Segment: Leg Speed (3)
One-leg speed (20 minutes) Note: One-Leg Pedaling is explained below.
In a low gear (39×19), spin at 90 rpm for 15 seconds. Then pedal slowly for 45 seconds.
Repeat 4 more times, but increase your cadence during the first 15 seconds by 5 rpm each time.
Unclip your left foot. In a low gear (39×21), spin with your right leg for 60 seconds at about 100 rpm.
Do the same with the left leg.
Repeat steps 3 and 4 four times.
Using both feet, repeat steps 1 and 2.

One-Leg-Pedaling Trainer Workout
One-leg pedaling is an extremely effective way to work on strength and add variety to your indoor training at the same time. When you pedal with both legs, the leg that pulls the foot through the
bottom of the stroke, up the back and over the top gets lazy. That’s because the other leg is pushing the pedal down, a much more powerful and natural action than pulling the pedal up.

Now think about it. If your leg doesn’t help bring the pedal up and over the top, it’s just dead weight. It increases the resistance your muscles must overcome to move your bike down the road. This is why learning to pedal a complete, 360-degree circle with each leg makes you a better rider. One-leg pedaling drills teach your muscles and nervous system.
The Workout Segment: One-leg training
Warm up on the trainer for 20 minutes by pedaling with both legs.
Unclip your left foot from the pedal. Hook it back over the trainer just to the left of where it connects to the rear hub (photo). Or, rest it on a chair or stool just outside the left pedal circle.
Pedal at about 90 rpm with your right leg. Use an easy gear until you get accustomed to the unusual feeling. You’ll probably find it difficult to pedal for more than 2 or 3 minutes the first time. The muscles that lift your thigh and push the pedal over the top will fatigue quickly. But you’ll improve rapidly.
After a few minutes of using the right leg, switch to the left and pedal for the same amount of time.
As you improve, increase the gear and the amount of time you pedal with each leg.
TIP! To simulate riding uphill, put a block of wood under the front wheel to tilt the bike. A 4- or 5-inch block will do it.

The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (1)
Minute on, minute off (20 minutes)
In the saddle using a fairly large gear (53×17), pedal at 90 rpm for 60 seconds. This should raise your heart rate to within 5 bpm of your lactate threshold (LT). It should feel “hard.”
Shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 60 seconds.
Repeat 9 times. During the final 3 efforts, your heart rate will climb to your LT or slightly above as you near the end of 60 seconds.

The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (2)
Stand and ascend (20 minutes)
In a big gear (53×13), stand and pedal rhythmically for 2 minutes. Your heart rate should rise to about 5 bmp below your lactate threshold. It should feel “hard.”
Sit down, shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 2 minutes.
Repeat 4 times. During the final 3 efforts, your heart rate will climb to your LT or slightly above as you near the end of the 2 minutes
The Workout Segment: Climbing Power (3)
Up and down (20 minutes)
In a moderate gear (53×19), pedal for 5 minutes at a cadence around 90 rpm.
Stand and shift to a cog that’s 2 or 3 teeth smaller than you were in while sitting. For example, if you pedal seated in 53×19, shift to the 17 or even the 15 when you stand. Intensity should feel “hard.” Your heart rate should rise to your LT in the last 2 minutes.
Sit down, shift to the small chainring and spin easily for 5 minutes to recover.
Repeat once.

Indoor Riding & Weights
You don’t need to stay on the trainer for an entire workout. For example, you can alternate 2- or 3-minute cycling intervals at about 85 percent of your max heart rate with leg presses, squats or step-ups. The weight workout improves strength. The pedaling intervals remind your legs and nervous system that you’re a cyclist, too. This workout is a great way to create strength and begin the process of converting it to cycling-specific power.
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (1)
If you have a time trial bike, use it for these workout so you get accustomed to the position. Or, put clip-on aero bars on your trainer bike.
TT “threes” (20 minutes)
Ride for 3 minutes at a steady pace. Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm but does not drive your heart rate past LT. It should feel “hard” but not exhausting.
Shift to the small chainring and pedal easily for 2 minutes.
Repeat 3 times.
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (2)
TT ladder (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that lets you maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm and a heart rate not exceeding your LT. It should feel “hard,” but not exhausting.
Do a ladder like this:
1 minute hard, 1 minute easy
2 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy
3 minutes hard, 3 minutes easy
4 minutes hard, 4 minutes easy
The Workout Segment: Time Trial Power (3)
TT “eights” (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that lets you maintain a cadence of 90-100 rpm and a heart rate not exceeding your LT. It should feel “hard, but not exhausting.
Ride at time trial cadence and intensity for 8 minutes. Check your cyclecomputer to see how far you go. Check your heart monitor to determine average heart rate.
Ride easily for 4 minutes.
Repeat the 8-minute TT and re-check distance and average heart rate. If you cover substantially less distance the second time, or your heart rate is more than 5 beats higher, it says you did the first effort too hard.
The Workout Segment: Intervals (1)
Interval ladder (20 minutes)
Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm for the length of each interval. Intensity should be “very hard” at the end of each work period.
Do a ladder like this:
2 minutes hard, 2 minutes easy
1:45 hard, 1:45 easy
1:30 hard, 1:30 easy
1:15 hard, 1:15 easy
1:00 hard, 1:00 easy
:45 hard, :45 easy
:30 hard, :30 easy
The Workout Segment: Intervals (2)
Interval “threes” (18 minutes)
Choose a gear that allows a cadence of 90-100 rpm for the length of each interval. Intensity should be “very hard” at the end of each work period.
Ride hard for 3 minutes.
Shift to the small chainring and pedal easily for 3 minutes.
Repeat 2 times.
This Signature Series article is provided courtesy of RoadBikeRider.com. It comes from RoadBikeRider’s bible of training for cycling, Fred Matheny’s Complete Book of Road Bike Training by Fred Matheny.

From the cover: During three decades as a road rider and cycling writer, Fred Matheny has built an international reputation for his contributions to the sport. In this, his thirteenth book, he amasses his knowledge and that of many other experts in what is truly the complete book of road bike training.

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